#PLASTER REPAIR PATCH#
Here’s an outline of his step-by-step approach: Define the Size of the Patch The Solution: Contain the damage and avoid taking down the whole ceiling, then make a durable patch that matches the orange peel finish on the original ceiling. A small chunk of plaster is missing, but a large area around it is loose and has separated as much as 6 inches from the lath. The Problem: Somebody in the attic stepped onto the plaster ceiling below. The adhesive should slowly creep a bit further.A master stucco and plaster contractor shows how he repairs lath and plaster problems Once you see this, stop pumping the gun but keep the pressure on for a moment before releasing and backing out of the hole. You feel firm back pressure and might see some goo spreading to other holes or out the side of an adjacent crack. You are probably in between the lath and pumping adhesive into the abyss, stop. You keep squeezing and don't feel any back pressure. You can fill it a little more but don't push your luck, you may be breaking the wall even more. Stop, adjust the nozzle, it's not sealing properly on the hole. You confidently squeeze adhesive into the hole and it erupts right back out. Depending on the condition of the wall you may get a few different results. Once everything fits inject some adhesive into the holes. Sometimes the edges of the tube ever so slightly crush the edges of the hole forming a nice seal. You want a cut straight across making the cross section small enough to fit in the hole yet large enough to seal itself on the edges of the hole without pressing itself closed against the lath.
Some attention should be given to how the tip of the tube of goo is cut when opening it. It needs to be thin enough to slide into the nooks and crannies between the plaster and lath yet cure with a reasonable hold. I don't think I would use it for anything heavy duty but the fact that it's a bit thin is actually a benifit for this application. "PowerGrab" is very inexpensive and a bit watery compared to other construction adhesives. We've had good results with the stuff pictured below. The next step involves squirting some goo behind the plaster so it spreads onto the lath. If a piece does come off easily while you are vacuuming, don't worry, that piece probably wasn't going to hold well and probably needed to come off anyhow. If the wall is very loose or crumbling use caution, sometimes the vacuum may suck chunks of the wall off.
#PLASTER REPAIR FREE#
Give a gentle press on the wall while vacuuming to free up any loose material. Move back and forth over the holes to get all the loose debris out of the way.
#PLASTER REPAIR CRACK#
This is a bad location to have a loose wall since it's in the line of sight and could easily be bumped, causing a crack in any new paint.Īfter you've made all the holes you feel you need it's very important to vacuum them out, a shop vac works great.
In the picture below there was a spot underneath the light switch that moved easily with a tap. Once we have an idea of all the areas needing attention we'll have a good idea of the quantity of supplies needed for the repair job. If we find a spot, we mark it with painter's tape. We work our way around the wall with our hand gently tapping and pushing on the wall listening and feeling for signs of movement. Over years of dealing with these old walls we've developed a little technique that seems to work for us. Sometime this movement leaves a crack as evidence other times it takes a tap or gentle press to find the troubled areas. The old plaster has come loose from the lath in many places as the house has settled, shifted, warmed, and cooled over the last 150+ years. We started the long process of repairing the plaster and lath in the stairwell and upstairs hallway.